There are a lot of blurred lines when it comes to food and drink nowadays. Time was there were clearly divided pubs, tea shops and restaurants; now everyone offers everything, pubs call themselves brasseries and cafés have been replaced by coffee shops. Not round here, we’re glad to say. No Starbucks within a day’s travel. But we do have a Tea Shop.

Cemlyn, High Street, Harlech LL46 2YA
Huge range of teas. And Purple Moose beer!

Plas, High Street, Harlech LL46 2YA
Once home of Denys Finch Hatton, played by Robert Redford in the 1985 movie Out of Africa.

Hufenfa’r Castell, (The Castle Creamery) Castle Hill, Harlech LL46 2YH  078 1016 4547
Ice cream, very good ice cream, and bakery. Excellent home-baked bread: sourdoughs, malt ‘n’ seedy, organic loaves, available from 09:30. Telephone Eddie or Jeanne the day before to specify and book your loaf.

Bwtri Bach, High Street, Harlech LL46 2YA
A little deli and bread shop with tables.

Llew Glas Delicatessen, High Street, Harlech LL46 2YA
Highly recommended. We’ve never been there.

Kerfoots, 136-140 High Street, Porthmadog, LL49 9NT
Our favourite shop, the John Lewis of Wales. Great kitchenware, and when they have a sale it is a genuine sale — no dreadful Polaroid TVs bought in specially — with genuine bargains to be had. Marvel at the unique double-geometric spiral staircase leading up to the excellent café on the first floor.